When I arrived here 2 weeks ago, I checked into the nearest hotel, and headed straight for the old town, hoping to find a place to stay for awhile. Well, for the next two months.
Within a half hour I wandered into a coffee shop and met Jason & Joanne, a dynamic Taiwanese couple who, of course, spoke fluent Mandarin. They’d spent a decade in NYC, so their English was great, too. It turns out they knew just the right place for me to set up my own studio in Lijiang.
This is where I’m painting the small-scale ink illustrations for my new book, The Paper Apprentice. I made my trademark chaotic brand of organization within a day of moving in.
It borders a 200-year old courtyard built in traditional Naxi style.
Bats for good luck surround a mosaic of ancient-style Chinese characters.
The oldest part of the complex was originally built nearly 200 years ago. [And rebuilt after the many earthquakes since, incorporating original materials each time. The other buildings are newer.]
Wood ceilings over everything. As you can see I sleep under this bizarre lamp of exploding silk.
Oh did I mention the place is well under US$300 a month? Next month I’ll be staying in a bigger studio, to work on larger paintings, for less $.
We’re up a hill from Sifangjie, the main town square that’s jammed with tourists 18 hours a day. I’ve been lucky to find a quiet place to paint under pressure to meet upcoming deadlines. And learn the infuriatingly minute distinctions between different tones in Mandarin.
More photos on Flickr here
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Wow, this is beautiful and inspiring! I can’t believe it’s under $300US. I can’t wait to become independent and travel frequently…
This is amazing! Absolutely gorgeous for such a great price…I’m heading to Buenos Aires soon, and I’ll be paying $300 a month to rent a tiny room in an apartment.
Good god ebriel–I’m moving to Lijiang!
Looks beautiful. Thanks for sending on the pictures.
Everyone yes this has been a great spot to recover from 4+ months of travel & research in the SE Asia mainland, and get some illustrations done (with free Chinese tutoring thrown in). I’ve found a bigger, cheaper space up another hill that’s ideal for doing the larger artwork I have planned for next month. Pix of that place shortly after I move in, in August – it’s run by an antiques collector so is even more beautiful than this one.
Happysheep(?) your comment came in marked as Spam and was unintentionally deleted. Yes there are definitely cheaper places to stay in Lijiang Old & New towns, but I was happy to land a short-term place that suited my particular requirements during the first morning of my arrival here; comfortable bedroom w/small studio space and lots of sun, consistently hot water, serenity, nice decor. You’ve been here for quite awhile and I look forward to reading your blog more in depth soon.
Elizabeth, good to read more of your plans – a new place next month (next week?)?
I’m home from Greece, Italy, and – as of tonight – California: all good, but delighted to be back in MN. Cronins, Mary, and her new dog, Nico, for dinner Fri; trying to get Tom to join Matt, Lei and me on Monday for dinner. More, as it happens.
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what a lucky girl, Lijiang is such a spectacular place… a few tidbits if you haven’t already discovered them:
1. there is a local market behind the old touristy town, you will see very few tourists there and lots of wild and crazy creatures
2. try a restaurant in the old town called Moshi Moshi. decor is basic and simple, but still a peaceful atmosphere and amazing local food.
3. ask someone to take you out to Lashi Lake (only about a 10 minute drive) and walk around it (or bike if you can find one!)… you’ll get an amazing view into the local life…
Enjoy!
Lovelyvelo – thanks for all the advice. I know the market you mentioned, it’s a great spot for local food and copperware and woodworkers too. Will look out for that restaurant, too, sounds like a good place to get away from it all. Lashihai is beautiful, I passed it on the way to Lijiang Studio, but you’re right, I should really go there to enjoy it for a separate trip.
For some reason a number of comments aren’t showing up – still figuring out WordPress!
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Elizabeth,
Your place looks great. I can’t wait to see the new digs. What a gorgeous home to create in!
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Can you provide more information on this?