Archive for the ‘Thailand’ Category

Old Materials, Modern Tools

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010


My favorite papermaker Supan Promsen with his niece and a woodblock printed on his paper, 1 x 2 meters

Each day I walk into my studio, and as I look over my work-in-progress, the paper I’ve been painting gives me a thrill. This unique paper is custom-made for my artwork by Supan Promsen, the man pictured above.

But while I like to use old-school art materials, everything else about the work is 21st century. Supan and I communicate by email, in English. He keeps me up to date on the progress of my paper as it’s being made, then FedExes it to me in Australia. I photograph myself and others with a digital camera as we model for my paintings, and use Google to translate text into Chinese, Thai, and Japanese for my current series.

Many times I’ve rued all the stuff it takes to make art. Usually when lugging artwork across town, or moving countries again. Easels and stretcher bars and large-format thick papers take up a lot of room. I’ve often wished I could be content with all my work being purely digital; it would make for lighter luggage, but artwork on an iPad wouldn’t give off that subtle mulberry smell that my paper does. Something like cornstarch. It’s an elixir to a materialist like me.

And that’s what keeps me working with all this stuff: the materials are a crucial part of the process: as I mold them with my ideas and hands, I transform them into art. Or [because nobody interesting agrees on a definition of ART anymore] something like it.

Tipsy Travelling

Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

[detail]
Detail of Painting on handmade Thai paper, 70 x 100cm, 2010

My life is split between two amazing cities: Sydney and Bangkok. At first glance they seem to have little in common besides loads of fresh produce and a generous dose of sunshine. Bangkok has double the population, ten times the pollution, and costs a fraction of what it takes to live in Sydney. But both cities are a haven for long-term travelers – and the travel industry that caters to them.

Last night the Sydney Travel Tribe met in the city’s CBD (Central Business District), and we talked late into the evening, fuelled by a World Nomads-sponsored bar tab. Most of us run websites – like the Travel Tribe co-founder Ian, who runs Travellr.com – or we write about travel online. It was an excellent chance to talk travel p*rn. I saw Stuart from Travelfish for the first time in years; met Brooke, a fellow American in Sydney; ran into Dina, who’s passing through town on her trip around the world; was bowled over by the character behind Brokepacker, a new discount hostel site; met several writers; and had a look at the BUG guidebook and publisher.

All of the websites at Travel Tribe have different goals. Their creators range from burgeoning travelwriters to seasoned guidebook professionals.

But one thing we all have in common: without exception, we’d all skimp on our hotel room for the sake of an extra beer.

Into the Waves

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

Hokusai Wave, Cyanotype Painting on Silk, 2005

I’m disappearing for a week or more to Ko Wai, a small island in Eastern Thailand with erratic electricity and limited internet access.

Why? To finish writing the book Sensual Papers: Through the Backroads and Rivers of Thailand, Laos and Vietnam – my quest to find the papermakers of Southeast Asia.

How does one finish a book without electricity?

Easy – that’s what paper notebooks are for; they’ve worked well for writers, for centuries.

The internet is a distraction for writers hard at work on a specific project. Instant messages, emails and Twitter are prickly intrusions to writing time, written in slapdash English.

I’m happy to go on an internet-free diet before I head back to the craziness of Bangkok and my final round of cyanotype prints there.

See you when I get back…

Printing in the Rain

Saturday, May 1st, 2010

Rinsing in the Rain
Rinsing Cyanotype prints in monsoon rain

Prints made in a rickety studio.

Every morning I climb wooden stairs to the rooftop and print cyanotypes for a patient collector, and for a series I’m sending around the world. Sweat runs down my neck. Pollution claws at the back of my throat. I bake under the hot tin roof as my prints develop in the sun.

Bangkok was once a swampy maze of canals raging with annual typhoid outbreaks, and in our neighborhood we still have more than our share of mosquitoes. The housekeeper has planted cockroach bait, and instead of skittering away into open drainage pipes as they usually do, fat cockroaches are dying at my feet every time I turn the corner.

Working artists aren’t typical tourists.

I arrived here several months ago with a set budget and specific projects to complete — working here at the hottest time of year is no holiday. I chose to come here in February to be available for projects and meetings that didn’t materialize – but other, more interesting ones did.

The Artists Place – where I’m living and working – ticks all the boxes: it’s a third the price of a studio in Sydney, has bedrooms I use as darkrooms and plenty of sunny space to expose my prints, and best of all, my blue splatters don’t show up in its showers.

But I’m escaping for a week.

I’ve been feeling trapped in this flat town since my return from Mae Salong. It’s not just the sharpened bamboo sticks and tire barricades of the Red Shirt protesters, who have now taken over even more intersections of this city. It’s the neighbors’ gossip that I’m sleeping with an Irishman because he and I had an evening beer, the Australian down the road who insists my husband is having an affair because I’ve left him alone with no children, and the claustrophobia of smelling the toilets down the hall every time I open my door.

I’m sending off documents and prints to estate agents and collectors, then headed south for the week to focus on my book and breathe some fresh air.

Desperate for green.

There is a single patch of green in my neighborhood. Every time I pass it on the way home from the BTS skytrain I pause and stare at it. Hungrily. Ours is a neighborhood of concrete and handmade houses. They’re atmospheric but most tourists wouldn’t dream of staying in a house like The Artists Place. It’s too hot here, and there are too many six-legged neighbors.

The unconventional DIY building methods of the owner Charlee, who prefers the kind of jerry-rigged construction you’ll see in family homes all over Southeast Asia, have resulted in some quirks: exposed blue pipes, dusty plastic skylights, black walls and windows.

Today I felt forlorn as the rain cut short my printing session. The wind was wild and blew off the week’s pollution. I moved my last two prints under the rooftop where they could still get some UV rays, and trudged downstairs to rinse the rest.

Water poured into the house and out of the last shower stall and soaked the floor. It drained into the gutters and I looked up as the skylight shed buckets of monsoon rain. It was fresh and cool and free.

So I placed my prints under it and let the rainwater rinse off my prints, for a very special kind of blue.

Rooftop Blues in Bangkok

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

Some images from recent printing sessions at my studio:

Developing Cyanotypes in the Sun

Experimenting with new ways to apply cyanotype chemicals

Here are some Artists Proofs baking in the midday sun, quickly turning from green to dark Prussian blue then bleached by the sun into Prussian White.

These images developed in record time for me – just over ten minutes.

Developing Cyanotypes on Bangkok Rooftop

Prints developing on the rooftop, with neighborhood houses in the background

Directions for the photo chemicals say: “For consistent results, a UV lightbox is recommended,” and “best applied with a glass rod for even coverage.”

But I ignore these extra tools.

Every one of my cyanotype prints is the result of a unique juxtaposition of sunlight and humidity, acidity and images. I stroke chemicals onto paper with my paintbrush, held with confidence from years of training. It’s key to the variety within the blues of every series I make.

Rinsing Cyanotypes

Rinsing the prints

The first time I developed one of my own images in a darkroom, I was hooked. “It’s magic,” I thought.

In the trays under my fingers emerged an abandoned building covered in ice from a spring hailstorm. Pure Gothic kitsch, and no doubt it presaged my Bokor series.

Rinsing cyanotypes is simpler than a series of darkroom trays -these require  just 5 minutes under running water.

Highlights appear within a minute and the blues grow deeper as the image dries.

Later I scrutinize my prints and note the variety of borders on each one as they fade toward the paper’s edge: a water drop fallen on the drying print here, an extra stain from chemicals accentuate the image there.  Other prints go into the recycling bin, their irregularities too much of a distraction.

Like the imperfections that distinguish all of us from one another, it’s these variations that makes each print a unique work of art.

An Occasionally Troubled City

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

Title page of a visual guidebook made earlier this year – now “Occasionally Troubled” looks optimistic

Anyone who’s spent time in Bangkok knows a society which possesses as many graces as this one has massive tensions seething underneath those famous Thai smiles.

Years ago I spent a summer here. One day I was on the bus with a Thai friend. She squeezed my hand and said, “Let’s get out of here,” and pulled me into the street. “There was a man on there with a gun,” she said.

Having come from gun-loving America I wasn’t freaked out like our European companion.

Running errands this week I have seen plenty of guns in certain streets. Big ones. And huge coils of razor wire. Soldiers wearing riot gear.  Children sleeping on the street underneath their parents’ laundry. Stacks of tires and sticks of sharpened bamboo. Smelled the stale cigarettes and urine of hundreds who have nowhere to go in this city, because they are unwanted. Bangkok residents grow frustrated with the stand-off against their cousins from the countryside, and tensions on both sides soar.

Things in Bangkok look set to heat up this weekend.  Again. But with more people and parties and now “multicolored shirts” involved.

But over in my studio at the Artists Place, I’ve got prints to finish for a collector, photo festivals to talk to, a book’s second draft to finish and another series ready to go that’s been in development for an entire year. All I can do is make my work. And listen.

Saturday, April 17th, 2010


Slide from the package described below – more online soon

I just sent off this thank-you letter to the courier service DHL.

“Dear DHL,

“I would like to commend the manager and staff of your Thonburi office [though saying it's in Thonburi is a stretch, as I found out when the taxi ride took 45 traffic-free minutes to travel from my Thonburi studio] for their impeccable efficiency, their excellent English skills, and most of all for their truly incredible service.

“Last week I had a time-sensitive document which needed to be postmarked by Thursday 15th April [to be eligible for a long shot at an opportunity in a very cold country]. Unfortunately all post offices were closed most of last week due to the state of emergency declared by the [freaked-out] Thai government, and the Songkran holiday [Thai New Year, a.k.a. an excuse to douse passers-by with squirtguns and smear powder on their cheeks]. DHL proved to be an ideal solution.

“Your office manager and his assistant gave my taxi driver directions [of which which he took little notice as I tried to rescue a Picasa slideshow from my netbook in the back seat] and agreed to wait for us [giving me just enough time to abandon Picasa and individually relabel over 50 photos so reviewers of my work could make their own slideshow or browse on candy-colored Macs].

“When my taxi arrived nearly a half hour after DHL’s closing time your staff betrayed no impatience, and offered to print out any of my documents. They waited as I recovered two which had crashed in OpenOffice [alternating their smoke breaks] and meticulously catalogued the contents of my package [expressing only mild surprise as Cambodian trumpets blared 'Proud Mary' when I accidentally clicked on my Bokor Hill Station video].

“All told, your staff remained in the office for a full hour past closing time, truly going out of their way to help a first-time customer out of a [mainly self-inflicted] jam. Please pass on my gratitude and I will happily recommend your [expensive] services in the future.

“Sincerely Yours,

“Elizabeth Briel”

Flying into a State of Emergency

Friday, April 9th, 2010


Red Shirts in Bangkok

Last night as our plane touched down, our pilot dimmed the lights as we hit the runway and rolled into a troubled city. That afternoon I had caught up with local news and discovered the government had declared a state of emergency.

But a state of emergency isn’t a rare occurance in Thailand.

This is the hottest time of year, and is also the region’s festive season. Crimes and passions escalate with the heat. Tensions rise to the surface and explode. This is the time of year when the Khmer Rouge conquered our neighbors Cambodia, 35 years ago.

The protesters have just had their broadcast station closed by the government, which is showing a remarkable lack of long-term vision in this situation.

Tourists – crucial to keep Thailand’s economy going – are being advised not to come here, though incidents are confined to a small part of the capital.

And yet there are millions of Thais who, unlike the tourists, cannot just catch a plane and leave their country like we do.

Flowers with a Kick

Tuesday, April 6th, 2010

Coffee Flowers, Thailand

Coffee Flowers, Mae Salong, Thailand  Spring 2010

At Sweet Mae Salong Cafe this morning I had a great surprise: sometime over the past two days, the hills all around us had all blossomed with white flowers.  Now while I’m not usually the kind of girl who gushes about flowers, these white ones are special.

They’re coffee flowers, and they last only a few days before turning into glistening cherries and eventually after roasting and grinding, are transformed into the stimulating drink we know and love.

Northern Thailand has an ideal climate for growing coffee and tea, and these products have – mostly – replaced the opium poppies that you’d have seen around here some years ago.

More about coffee flowers at Illy Caffe’s website.

Sleeping Inside a Camera

Friday, April 2nd, 2010

v  Left: Red Chinese lantern v
Right: Market next door: tin roofs, motorbikes and passing cars >

I woke up as sunlight filtered into my room, the first sunny morning since I’d arrived in Mae Salong. The patches of light and color on my walls moved lazily along with traffic noises outside, and soon I realized these were no ordinary shadows that flickered onto my wooden walls: they were a genuine camera obscura thanks to a crack in my wooden shutters. It turns out I was sleeping inside a giant pinhole camera, and these shadows were the scene from the morning market outside, inverted and reflected into my guesthouse room.  Light flashed from chrome motorbikes and onto the wall above me. A red lantern swayed outside my window, its tassels grazing the wooden balcony below.

On sunny mornings it’s like watching a television on my bedroom walls – but with the same background every day.

About Me

I'm an american artist with an Asian focus.
I paint sharp-witted women.
I print blue photos of disappearing places. Sometimes I work in Sydney, sometimes I work in Asia. You can keep up and connect with me on Twitter, and Facebook, and Flickr

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