Archive for December, 2009

Gambling with Hemispheres

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

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“I Heart Pork Chop” Tee from Tsui Wah restaurant in HK

Today I’m finishing the first draft of my book: travels in search of Southeast Asian papers and the people who make them. Between pages I remember the home I left in Hong Kong, and the life I had made there. Moving to Sydney was the latest in a handful of gambles I’ve made with my life. Now it’s the last day of the year, a year later. If there’s a theme to my 2009, it’s the search for a home base. Or at least a studio base. Since my first week here I knew this continent couldn’t be home, however fascinating the landscapes, however enviable the lifestyle is for snow-bound northerners.

I write these last few chapters in a sunny living room in Sydney’s western suburbs. It’s filled with colorful Taschen photo books and a desiccated Christmas tree. I’ve a pair of cats and an iguana for company. It’s a comfortable, lived-in place. Walls lined with family photos. There’s a Chinese shopping center just up the road, with fair simulacra of regional Asian cuisines, from Cantonese to Sichuan to sushi. Appropriately enough, this home isn’t mine.

I’m house-sitting for Scandinavian neighbors met in Hong Kong, who also happen to live nearby in Sydney. “I can write from anywhere,” I said when they asked me. Then finished my last painting of the year and brought along my writing as they left for their summer holiday. For days I’ve been here but living elsewhere: retracing my journey through the hills, rivers and scattered towns of northern Vietnam. I scroll through notes and memories from the first half of this year. Trace my route on frayed maps written in English, French and Vietnamese. Blink in Sydney’s summer sun when I head out for one meal a day.

And gear up for my book tour in 2010. I’m excited to visit my favorite North American cities, some of which I called home for awhile: Boston, Minneapolis, New York. It’ll be my first trip back in five years.

Why so long since the last trip to america? Whenever I had a few grand to spare, I always re-invested it in my career: traveling for a new project or series, paying for a studio, buying camera equipment. My travels have always been in search of images for my work, of experiences to broaden my technique and perspective.

Though I never knew how things would turn out when I gambled on my future and jumped into a new experience, they’ve all paid off. And I suspect that someday I’ll find this time in Oz was worthwhile too.

“Missing [Apsara]” Part 5: Sexpats I have Known

Thursday, December 24th, 2009

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“Missing [Apsara]“, Handmade Ink and Acrylic on mulberry/bamboo paper, 70 x 70cm, 2009

Part 1: “Missing [Apsara]“: Expensive Accessories
Part 2: “Missing [Apsara]“: Headless
Part 3: “Missing [Apsara]” Supple Status Symbols
Part 4: “Missing [Apsara]” Ramvong

He sat at my streetside table and ordered us a pair of BeerLaos. Looked older than his 40-odd years. Wiped the sweat from his pale forehead and frowned at the horde of daytrippers back from Angkor Wat. “How’s everything here in Siem Reap?” I asked. I was visiting from Korea to renew my visa and to see if I could start an art project in Cambodia.

“It’s good,” he said in his understated Canadian way. “You should meet my new girlfriend, she’s finished with school in an hour. She’s a lot of fun. I call her my Apsara, one of the temple’s celestial dancers. Her proportions are exactly like the sculptures at Angkor.” But is she your apsara, I wondered? What makes you think she belongs to you?

I moved there several months later. His girlfriend was twenty, vivacious and determined to find the right man. She was finishing high school thanks to tuition paid by her Canadian boyfriend, and received a stipend from an old French boyfriend – a BBC correspondent – living in Phnom Penh. Most of it went to her family, who appeared to expect it instead of a dowry; now that neighbors knew she’d had western boyfriends, her reputation was tarnished in every way.

We would go out for coffee and on photo shooting trips around World Heritage temples and in the stark Cambodian countryside. After she left my middle-aged english-teaching friend for a series of younger, handsome guys with better career prospects, she would tag along with me to a local French bar to find her next one.

Now she spends her time shuttling between Bangkok and Cambodia with her partner of the past four years. She’s moved on up from overweight English teachers to a handsome French hotelier who keeps his mistresses out of sight, if he has any.

It turns out she wasn’t his Apsara after all.

“Missing [Apsara]” Part 4: Ramvong

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

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Detail of figure from “Missing [Apsara]“, Handmade Ink and Acrylic on mulberry/bamboo paper, 70 x 70cm, 2009

When I painted this shirt I painted Khmer script into the violet-and-gold pattern: “Ramvong” is graceful Cambodian dance, slow and sensual. You don’t need a local lover or partner to do it – everyone dances in a circle and smiles at foreigners who try. It’s easy to do badly and hard to do well. This Cambodian karaoke video will give you a taste of it.

Part 1: “Missing [Apsara]“: Expensive Accessories
Part 2: “Missing [Apsara]“: Headless
Part 3: “Missing [Apsara]” Supple Status Symbols
Part 5: “Missing [Apsara]” Sexpats I Have Known

“Missing [Apsara]” Part 3: Supple Status Symbols

Monday, December 21st, 2009

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Detail of figure from “Missing [Apsara]“, Handmade Ink and Acrylic on mulberry/bamboo paper, 70 x 70cm, 2009

Part 1: “Missing [Apsara]“: Expensive Accessories
Part 2: “Missing [Apsara]“: Headless
Part 4: “Missing [Apsara]” Ramvong
Part 5: “Missing [Apsara]” Sexpats I Have Known

Some of what I thought about while painting this mobile into a stylized hand:

* My first email “Sent from a Blackberry” came from a collector in Chicago nearly ten years ago

* Blackberries arrived in Cambodia this year. The young Khmer elite who use them continue to corrupt the country as efficiently as their parents and prime minister have, closing deals in rooms with high ceilings, polished tile floors, and flanked by showy bodyguards with Kalashnikovs

* The court dancers’ hands molded from a young age into supple arabesques, then carved into bas reliefs at Angkor and elsewhere. See more about a fascinating Khmer dancer here from the editor for my first contribution to ThingsAsian Press – essays for To Cambodia with Love: a Travel Guide for the Connoisseur

“Missing [Apsara]” Part 2: Headless

Thursday, December 17th, 2009

flower and face
Detail of headless stone apsara from “Missing [Apsara]“, Handmade Ink and Acrylic on mulberry/bamboo paper, 70 x 70cm, 2009

Part 1: “Missing [Apsara]” Expensive Accessories
Part 3: “Missing [Apsara]” Supple Status Symbols
Part 4: “Missing [Apsara]” Ramvong
Part 5: “Missing [Apsara]” Sexpats I Have Known

As I painted this dancer modeled after the thousands carved onto walls of the ancient city of Angkor Thom – some of which have had their faces hacked off for art smugglers – I thought of a few things:

* Of the heritage Cambodia loses every year because they can’t police their World Heritage sites like Angkor Wat

* How it’s more difficult to let the history of pencil strokes show beneath paint than it is to get rid of them and destroy the paper’s surface

* How often I was told – and slapped – to shut my mouth when disagreeing with elders. (Now when people don’t like what I have to say, they smile and change the subject)

“Missing [Apsara]” Part 1: Expensive Accessories

Tuesday, December 15th, 2009

makeup cropped
Detail of “Missing [Apsara]“: Handmade Ink and Acrylic on mulberry/bamboo paper, 70 x 70cm, 2009

Part 2: “Missing [Apsara]“: Headless
Part 3: “Missing [Apsara]” Supple Status Symbols
Part 4: “Missing [Apsara]” Ramvong
Part 5: “Missing [Apsara]” Sexpats I Have Known

While I painted these tools women use to heighten their features, I thought of several things:

* How Khmer Rouge cadres dressed identically, but the number of ballpoint pens in their pockets indicated their rank

* Women who appraise other women based on the variety and expense of their makeup tubes

* Women the world over who paint our faces and prefer them that way

* Men the world over who don’t like the taste of lipstick

* Sundry toxins in traditional dyes and makeup – like lead and other heavy metals – that slide on the skin like butter [same goes for lead paint onto a canvas]

* Cosmetic companies who make billions out of encouraging women’s anxiety about life-and-death issues like large pores and undereye circles [the west], or freckles & dark skin [Asia/elsewhere], and especially the size of one’s thighs [anywhere wealthy enough to afford an expensive diet program]

Have Easel, Will Travel

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

Visiting Artists - Vicchio, Italy
Modeling for a group of touring amateur painters in Tuscany, 2000. I prefer to be behind the camera/easel to being in front of it.

At the end of the year we look to the past and the future as we sketch out 2010. I’m reminded of a woman I encountered ten years ago who combined the discipline and daring it took to live the life she chose. She was the first artist I’d met who was doing what I wanted to do with my life: she travelled and made a living as a professional painter. While her subject matter was different than mine – I painted architecture and figures in wax like this and she preferred landscapes in acrylic – I wanted to lead a life like hers someday. Little did I know I was halfway there. Every night I plied her with local wine and interrogated her about how she managed to combine art and travel and make a living at it.

We were in Tuscany. I was working as a sculpture apprentice for the summer. She was leading a group of a dozen demanding doctors’ wives on a two week Tuscan painting tour. I had daily goals, like making wax and plaster molds for an eccentric sculptor. She had daily painting goals for a mid-winter exhibition. I had a painting to finish that paid my way through an Alpine road trip and Miata sunburn. We had both studied art in university and most of our professors found our style too old-fashioned. But we continued to make work that reflected our travels and our vision.

As I plan out the next year: several months in a Bangkok studio, completion of my paper book, intensive work on two series of artwork, and a US book tour next fall, I realize that ten years ago I had the work habits required for the job of a professional artist. But I didn’t have anything to say that would last beyond my 20s. And I knew it: my images were mostly simplistic self-portraits. So I kept on travelling and experimenting with different painting and photography hybrids. Trying out different jobs and art/work/life balance recipes.

Now I have things to say with my brush and books. There are a few examples on my website. But there’s a lot more coming up in 2010, and I look forward to provoking discussions with the new paintings on my easel and walls. And with the blueprints I’ll print in Bangkok early next year.

Sticky Rice + Sun = Rice Crackers

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

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Rice crackers dry in the sun along the river, Luang Prabang

I’ve just begun the first draft of the Lao portion of my book on handmade paper, and am having continual flashbacks to my too-short time there earlier this year.

Laos distinguish their cuisine from neighboring Thai and Vietnam by their emphasis on sticky rice. When in Northeast Thailand and in Laos, don’t pass up the chance to enjoy sticky rice with your meal.

Like a savory rice krispie cake, this is a delicious and nutritious way to get your sticky rice quotient for the day. Once dry in the sun, these crackers are deep fried. You dip them in an assortment of delicious sauces with a fishy flavor at a riverside restaurant, then sit back and wait for your next BeerLao. It might well take awhile to arrive, but laid back Laos gives the illusion you’ve all the time in the world.

Hong Kong’s Painted Highrises

Sunday, December 6th, 2009

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Reluctant pose with my mural before rushing to the Macau ferry

I’ve just returned to Sydney from five fun and frenetic days in my favorite Chinese city: Hong Kong, and launched my latest collaborative project with ThingsAsian Press, the photo book Lost & Found: HK. I was also invited to contribute to a mural for the DETOUR creative festival. The festival was held in an unusual venue: the run-down barracks for families of local police officers. Some of these tiny apartments still have traces of the families who lived there. Haunted decrepit buildings? That’s my kind of place.

I painted my section with golden lettering that blazes from a rich red background: “PEACE = HARD WORK”.  Haraya is a Hong Kong-based group of Filipino painters and media artists I’ve met through the Mural Society. The recent journalist massacres in Maguindanao were on all our minds. I thought of how difficult peace is to achieve between countries, and of the 20th century de facto American colonization of the Philippines. And of how rare peace is within homes, within ourselves. Most of all, I thought of how I best find my own peace: by working day and night for a creative goal.

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Looking up at the highrises surrounding us at the police barracks, I decided to paint illuminated buildings of Hong Kong at night. Tower blocks were a favorite subject of my painting students in Hong Kong, and the dominant feature of their daily landscape.

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The Haraya artists hard at work painting their way through the weekend. More photos of the mural-painting and DETOUR  installations here.

I'm an american artist with an Asian focus.
I paint sharp-witted women.
I print blue photos of disappearing places. Sometimes I work in Sydney, some times I work in Asia. You can keep up and connect with me on Twitter, and Facebook, and Flickr

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